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Dec 01, 2021 51 secs

“Is it too soon?” is the question we ask ourselves, as the final collection from Virgil Abloh goes on show just a few days after the announcement of his death.

Still if every moment of today’s men’s spring/summer 2022 show – subtitled Virgil Was Here – is backlit by the idea he was working on the collection up until the very end, the main meat of the show is very much business as usual.

Both the spring/summer 2022 and autumn/winter 2021 Vuitton shows were mixtape-like riffs on black consciousness, featuring GZA from the Wu-Tang Clan, Saul Williams and the inspiration of James Baldwin’s essays.

If this spring/summer 2022 collection lacks that narrative element, the clothes do the storytelling and remind you that Abloh was endlessly inventive, furiously reinventing with every hat, accessory or cut of trouser.

It’s about how to be a black thinker in white spaces; it’s about inserting the black canon in art history books,” Abloh told Vestoj magazine, in an interview published before his death.

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